Hello to all of you…
It’s been a while since I checked in. I hope you found the links to discussions of Hong Kong tailoring useful or interesting. I’ll be visiting the city next week to buy a few pieces from Peter Lee. I’m really excited about this. I had originally planned to buy something from WW CHan, but instead I’ll save up until next year, after I’ve gained some experience with custom clothes.
Anyway I was at my girlfriend’s dad’s house last week and he lent me some old Japanese men’s fashion magazines from the mid-60’s. I’ll share some scans with you now.
Ask Andy about spalla camicia shoulders...
I personally think the shoulder should be reserved for more casual jackets or for guys with super heavy or square shoulders but YMMV.
Even the Neapolitans reserve this for casual coats
This is basically how I feel
(via Anton Explains Neopolitan Shoulder)
I don’t really think I like this billowy look… Especially not the photo on the left side.
"Chan has a higher default for its lapel notch than the other houses and takes the most cues from Italian and British counterparts. The silhouette is cut close at the waist with a wasp-like nip. The chest is somewhat swelled. The shoulders, which want for a natural line, are lightly padded and come standard with an oddly clean “spalla camicia.” This shoulder treatment, where the arm is “tucked” under the scye at the shoulder seam, found its way into the house style approximately a year and a half ago. The fullness in the shoulder tapers to a particularly narrow arm that is almost tubular from elbow to wrist. The trousers sit just below the natural waist and take a slight taper in the leg."
A Suitable Wardrobe: Guest Post: W. W. Chan Style (reference)
JD Pt. III
This is Pitti, right? I would love to have a hat like that. And a shirt like that. And a jacket for the summer. And tortoise-shell glasses - nahh, my Ray Bans are enough.
Reblogged from howtotalktogirlsatparties with 32 notes
